Dhulikhel

Yesterday morning at the top of Thang La in Tibet it was about -10°C. This morning in Nepal jnext to the river, ust before lunch it was 41°.

The downhill continued, through the border where we swapped the truck and landcruiser for a bus. Was also where I gave Calien's bike back and got the rented bike.

Soem more downhill followed (I could get used to this) and then some very pleasant riding next to a river.

For lunch we stopped at a local restaurant - where we duly followed the local example of eating rice with our hands.

Was a monster climb to Dhulikhel - was very hot and i soon ran out of water. Luckily met Herman the Flying Dutchman about a tenth up the hill, and he emptied his 1.5l bottle of hot water into my bladder - 'twas enough to get me up the hill. With gears slipping, and brakes holding onto the rented bike's rims, I was not very impressed every time there was a downhill after we've gained some altitude - and very glad to finally reach the top a few hours later. The resort was absolutely beautiful (but we couldn't find a swimming pool anywhere) .

The food was once again great - and the view of the mountains around out of this world :)

Everest Base Camp

The derrailleur got caught in the spokes and bent badly. Here's my bike being converted into a singlespeed with a pretty hill in the background.

Some prayer flags almost at base camp.

The mountains next to the road looked like bottles with coloured sand-layeyers in them.

Top of a tiny hill at basecamp.

The ride there was good - but back was superb when found the hiking-trails :D

The hardtail.

42 hairpin bends - and the sweetest downhill singletrack

It was a beautiful day when we left Shegar. More tar, then the first signs of a big mountain waiting for us - here we finally left the tar - the bike now much happier 'cos it was on familiar surface :)

Lots of town have 'gates' at the entrance - here's the town gate just before Pang La. 

Tibettan houses all look the same - a flat roof and painted square windows like this one. Often more symmetrical, though.

Pang La has 42 hairpin bends. I counted them. It's about 1000m's worth of vertical ascent. It took a while to get up there. On the way up, I thought it would be cool to come down that bends - but that was before I saw the singletrack on the other side :)

The view from the top was just stunning - the first time we saw the Himalayas. Wow. Was windy and cold, so I retreated to the lunch-spot about 200m back.

After lunch, we crested the hill again - and then, when everyone wanted to go on the motorway, the guide pointed to a hiking trail. 'The road's too bumpy', was his excuse. And man, was that singletrack fun! I'm used to let the faster people go first on singletrack ... but I soon realised that the 2 South Africans are much more comfortable on this than any of the faster climbers or tar-riders ... so we asked some track and bombed down the trail with large grins ... there were some steep turns, and a jumpie here and there - and every time you look up, Everest is in front of you.

THIS was why I came to Tibet.

The thrill lasted for a long time - at the bottom, we joined the dirtroad again, but it was horribly corrugated - and there were lots of yak-tracks and donkey-cart-tracks next to the road, which made for excellent mountainbiking on what was generally downhill and with a tailwind. I stopped too often to take pictures, so lost contact with the front guys - but those behind me couldn't catch me - so this made for some solitary riding in a desert - this day easily counts as one of my best days of riding yet.

When the downhill finally ended in a small town, we waited for the whole group while the truck tried to source some drinking water for the night. the last 5 kms was into a gale force headwind on a false flat - uphill on badly corrugated road. Was hard cycling, but luckily not too far. Arriving at the campsite, the truck's crew (who arrived just before us) had difficulty putting up the tents in that wind - so we all jumped in to help. It took about 6 people per tent to pitch it in that wind.

Shigatse

Yesterday morning when we woke up in fresh snow at 4700 and way below zero degrees, I thought my next holiday might be somewhere hot, and with lots of oxygen ... like Hawaii, maybe, or the Moz coast. But then

we ascended the Karo La pass (5000m), and cycled a pretty downhill, first with a backdrop of snowcovered mountains, and then through picturesque towns with red/orange/yellow/purple mountains as backdrop.
Horse carts with bells, dogs with red collars, yaks with yellow earrings and red collars. We spent the night at Gyantse (about 4000m above sea level) - LOTS of oxygen :)  From far away you can see the town - a fort (built by the english at around 1900) looks over the city. Another visit to a monastry.

Today we cycled just over 90 kays to Shigatse on the flattest road possible ... the total vertical ascent was a meagre 60 metre ... and the descent 190 (yup, even MORE oxygen tonight)

A Belgian, a Dutchmen, 4 Norwegians, a Chinese American, a Canadian, a Spaniard, a Swiss and 2 South Africans ... and everywhere people know that the world cup is in South Africa.

Lots more tourists on this route than expected :(

Lhasa

Saw a lot of YAPs and YATs (yet another temple) ... the Potala palace this morning was spectacular. Haven't seen any yaks yet.
Did eat a few, though - on a yakburger, fried, as a steak - it's best in curry :)

3600m above sea level. it's hot, between 30 and 40 degrees. Perfect summer days. Air is very dry - i'm goin nowwhere without a bottle of water, lip-ice and some face cream! It's hot, i hope i get to use all the cold weather gear i brought! There's a lot of hiking shops here in Lhasa, but unfortunately i have everything i need :)

There's an incoming or outgoing mail stuck in the phone's in/outbox, so i can't use it for mail at the moment - so i can't post pictures from there at the moment.

Finally begin cycling tomorrow. The support team arrived, and are buying our food now. I think it's a flattish 85, haven't checked.

The box was badly damaged on the three flights, but bike arrived undamaged and with all the parts. The tubeless tube came off. There's a few bike shops in Lhasa, but bikes don't run on tubeless. Motorbikes don't run on tubeless either, so i'll put a tube in this afternoon, and then go test it.

the packing list

Qatar allows 20 kg check-in baggage, and 7 kg hand-luggage for economy class. And a whole lot of pounds for any overweight.

Spent most of the weekend weighing stuff with the kitchen scale.

Here's the packing list so far:

Check-in baggage:

This will be the bike box with bike and sleeping bag, and other things that I most likely won't be allowed to take on board as hand luggage.

• Bicycle - 13.5 kg - it's in the shop at the moment to have the (lighter) shock fitted, and the trance's wheel are lighter (300g) - so I'm hoping this would weigh in at less than 13 kg
• Bike Box & Sleeping bag - 5 kg
• Salomon bag & 3l bladder - 700g (it's 200g ligher than the pretty green camelback)
• Bike-tools - 850g (2 spare tubes, tyre levers, drop-out, multitool, knife, brake pads, pump, chainlinks. Lube not included yet, and no chain tool.)
• Medication - 420g (pain killers, vits, nausea, diarrhea, sore throat, rehydrate, med-lemon, plasters. Water purification tablets/fluid not included yet.)
• Toiletries - 400g (this one i'm proud of - it includes a towel, the toiletry bag, shampoo, laundry soap, toothpaste, wet-wipes AND make-up! waterless hand cleaner not included yet.)

This adds up to almost 21 kg, and i still have to add a few grams for the tape to tape the box up. I might split the toiletries to take stuff out that would be allowed to fly, and possibly take the tubes as hand-luggage too. I will re-assess when i got the bike back from the bikeshop and see what the final verdict is.

Hand luggage:

• Camera bag with camera, tiny headlight, cellphone, passport, other travel docs and book - this i'm not planning on giving to anyone to weigh :)
• I'm wearing softshell pants, shortsleeved cycling shirt, thermal (my new yellow soccer-friday puffadder), down jacket, cycling shoes and buff. thermal windbloc gloves goes in the pocket of the down jacket.
• All the clothes (that i'm not wearing) will go as hand luggage. I wonder what the immigration official will say if he orders me to pack out, and there's 3 set of cycling shorts in the bag. Anyway - here's the list:
• 
  
• cyclingshort * 3 = 450g (capestorm is slightly lighter than first ascent, so capestorm it will be)
• rain pants = 250g
• shortsleeve t = 110g (the favourite fox-shirt is 30g heavier than the capestorm shirt. am wondering if i need another one - apart from the one i'm wearing?)
• longsleeve t = 150g (t-shirt means those nice wicking running shirts from capestorm that i use for cycling.)
• thermal longsleeve top = 150g (the capestorm version of helly hansen)
• wind jammer = 100g (the red helium jacket, and not my favourite dayglo cirrus jacket, which is 200g heavier)
• ear muff = 10g
• fleece pants * 1 = 300g (capestorm hotrod)
• arm warmers = 50g
• rain jacket = 420g
• waterproof overmittens = 80g
• hair beanie = 150g (capestorm freak - my license to never comb my hair when i'm touring)
• sleeping bag liner = 150g
• leg warmers (windproof) = 180g
• underwear & socks * 2 each = 300g (one website suggests 5 pairs, so i might up this - and possibly buy a pair or 2 of socks in kathmandu)
• bag to put it all in = 700g

Hand luggage weighs in at less than 4 kg at this stage - lots of space for pocket espressos and south african flags :D

Being a 'base' for lots of trekkers to the Himalayas, there's a few hiking shops in Kathmandu - so i'm planning to buy a few things in Kathmandu, among other things a sarong of some sorts to put on over cycling pants when off the bike, thermal long johns, and maybe a pair or 2 of socks.

2 weeklets (and a bit) to take-off: the itinerary

Impeccable timing for a cold/flu (if the cold simply had to be had, that is). After Joberg2C, but with enough time to recover for the Himalayan adventure. The Mnweni Marathon, however, will have to wait till next year - doc said not with this cold in that temperatures and altitude.

Got a mail from Mohan this morning; he's organising the 'alien permit' for Tibet and had some questions. Suddenly the trip is a reality.

My mom always wanted to know the exact itinerary, even if i was backpacking in a post-war African country with no plan at all, except a date that i had to be back at work - so here goes:

26 May
Check in. drink airport coffee, shop that the duty-free Cape Union Mart shoppie, and then fly to Doha and on to Kathmandu.

27 May
Arrive in Kathmandu, hope that the riots cleared up, and shop for stuff that you forgot at home. There should be lots of outdoor shops, with it being the gateway to some big mountains.

28 May
Sighteeing in Kathmandu

29 May
Fly over arguably the world's prettiest mountains to Lhasa.

30 May sightseeing Lhasa
(this is mainly to acclimatise; Lhasa is amost 4000m amsl)

31 May - more sightseeing in Lhasa. Find a place to drink Yak Butter Tea.

1 June Start the Bike Tour![85km]
Finally, your trans-Himalayan biking adventure begins. We leave Lhasa and cycle along the Tsangpo River to the foot of the Kamba Pass (3700 m). When you arrive you will find tents,latrines, shower tent and facilities ready. Overnight accommodation in tents.

2 June Kamba Pass [55km]
Your first mountain pass. A strong uphill climb reaches a summit lavishly adorned with prayer flags (4794m). After descending we continue alongside Lake Yamdruk, at the far side of which we set camp (4490m). Overnight accommodation in tents.

3 June Karo Pass [54km]
Leaving the beautiful lake behind, we cycle through a ravine and up to the foot of the Karo Pass (4750m), where our tented village will be prepared for the night. Overnight accommodation in tents.

4 June Gyantse [79km]
A significant day on the tour, as we have to get up early to climb the high Karo Pass (5010m). By now you will be feeling in good physical condition. Around us we can see glaciers of 6000m and beautiful lakes. You are rewarded for your effort with a night in a top hotel in the city of Gyantse (3980m). Overnight accommodation at Hotel Gyantse.

5 June Shigatse [85km]
First we will take an hour to visit the Palkhor Monastery and the old part of Gyantse town.Although today involves a longer distance, the highway is paved and flat. In the afternoon we will arrive in Tibet's second largest city, Shigatse (3860m). Overnight accommodation at Hotel Shigatse.

6 June Gyachung Monastery [75km]
We leave Shigatse and ride over two small passes and through several small Tibetan villages. We will cycle past the isolated Gyachung Monastery and camp. Overnight accommodation in tents at around 4100m.

7 June Lhatse [95km]
The route lead us through picturesque valleys. Then the long ramp begins which leads over the Yulong pass (4520m). After lunch we head towards Lhatse (3860m). Just before this town there is a hot springs. We will camp approx. 10 km after Lhatse. Accommodation in tents.

8 June Shegar [75km]
Today we have to contemplate the stunning canyon of the 5220m Lakpa Pass. On a clear day you will be rewarded for your effort with your first view of Mount Everest. After a 40 km ride through flat prairie towns you will arrive in the town of Pelbar, often refered to as Shegar. This town is a popular stopover for anyone heading to the Everest region. Overnight accommodation in a hotel Quomolongma.

9 June Pang Pass [67km]
It's now time to divert from the Lhasa-Kathmandu highway and head towards the world's highest peak. First you are faced with 20km of uphill switchbacks (42 hairpin bends in total!) before you reach the summit of the Pang Pass (5150m). Enjoy lunch as you gaze over Makalu (8463m), Shishapangma (8012m), Cho Oyu (8210m), Lhotse (8516m), Everest (8850m) and several other breathtaking peaks. Then a 20-kilometer downhill follows to the Rongbuk Valley (4200m), where we camp. Overnight accommodation in tents.

10 June Rongbuk Monastery [35km]
Now you should be at peak fitness and very excited about the approach of Everest Base Camp. A bumpy road winds up through the Rongbuk valley until the majestic Mount Everest appears before you. We will camp beside the monastery with the unforgettable sight of the 8850m peak in front of your eyes.. We will stay here for two days. Overnight accommodation in tents (5150m).

11 June Everest Base Camp [8km * 2]
A day to relax. However, you will definitely want to get as close as you can to Everest. You can walk, cycle or even take a donkey and cart ride to the base camp which is 8km from the campsite. Overnight accommodation in tents.

12 June Tingri [76km]
Leaving Rongbuk, we head back down the bumpy road then take a "short-cut" into the mountains. Another bumpy trail takes us over a canyon and down into Tingri (4340m). Overnight accommodation in tents.

13 June Lalung Pass [75km]
This day begins with a 40 to 50km flat ride before lunch. Then we tackle the gradual incline of the Lalung Pass (4990m). From here you will feel like you are as high as the peaks around you, including Shishapangma (8012m). Overnight accommodation in tents in the valley between two passes.

14 June Cross Thang Pass and The Ultimate Downhill [117km]
Now get ready for one last kick uphill. You will climb Thang Pass (5050m). You will be treated to breathtaking views of the Himalayan chain as you freewheel down.
Stop and pat yourselves on the back because from here on down to the Nepalese border it's all downhill.. From the town of Nyalam you will notice that the scenery is starting to turn green again. Spiral on down past countless waterfalls to the border town of Zhangmu (2300m). This will be our last day in Tibet. Overnight accommodation in a hotel Zhangmu.

15 June Back to Nepal [97km]
From Zhangmu we have to pass through customs and into Nepal. Once you are in the Nepali town of Kodari the downhill continues for the next 50 km. Suddenly it is tropical and humid and green again. After you reach the town of Dolalghat you must climb up to Dhulikhel (1600m). Accommodation in Dhulikhel Lodge Resort.

16 June Bhaktapur and Kathmandu. [35km]
What a wonderful way to end this trip – a big breakfast at sunrise and the spectacular panorama of the Himalayas. You will certainly enjoy the last few kilometers as we freewheel down to Bhaktapur. Here you will stop to see some of the town's several century old famous temples before riding into busy Kathmandu again.
On the remaining time you can relax, shop or go sightseeing. Evening we invite you on a farewell dinner at Rum Doodle Bar.Stay overnight at Hotel De L' Annapurna.


17 June
Flight from Kathmandu to Doha and on to Joberg International.

18-19 June
Sleeeep

Rest of the Year
bore everyone with pictures and stories :D

21 days before take-off to Tibet

The new shock that i ordered for the hardtail is still on Heathrow airport. Been stuck there since 23 April, possibly due to the volcano. Hope it arrives in time to be fitted and tested before i have to pack the bike to fly to Kathmandu.

The hardtail was booked for a full service (and shock-fitting) on Friday, but I'll use that slot to have the Trance looked over. It served me well on Joberg2C - there was not one mechanical, not even a puncture -
(only the shock and headset that rattled loose from the juicy downhills) - so it deserves to be thoroughly looked over and the mud, sand and beachride-salt cleared.

I rebooked the hardtail for a week later, hoping that the shock will arrive in time. The back brake also need attention, but if all else fails, i can just use the Trance's back brake. Bike is still on the other side of the Boereword-gordyn, with Donald - will go fetch it Thursday night at the Dark&Dirty - any excuse to go through to Pretoria for the ride :)

Other things on the list:
- find out what documentation needs to go with, and print and make copies
- passport photos for visas and permits
- travel insurance - should be covered by discovery and the credit card, but need to get confirmation and docs
- the packing list - what to take and what to leave
- what tyres to take, and what wheels (possibly the trance's wheels?)
- what spares to take and what to leave
- foreign currency
- postal addresses of people who might need postcards - e.g. the office :D
- get hold of a phone that can send sms & mms
- find out, and get plug-adapters for charging camera and cellphone